What is Lash + Brow Protein Reconstruction? [How it Lifts + Restores Over-Processed Hairs]
Summary
- Protein reconstruction lifts lashes and brows with formulas that also nourish and strengthen the hairs
- Great for damaged, weak and dehydrated lashes
- No wait time between appointments - perfect for clients who want to reduce times between lifting appointments or who need a bad lash or brow lift fixed
- No thioglycolic acid (TGA) or hydrogen peroxide
- Use alongside tinting and optional Protein Botex step
- Allow between 50-75 minutes per appointment
- Charge between £45 - £95 per treatment
With the ever-increasing popularity of lash lifts and brow lamination, it’s not surprising that technicians come across perms gone wrong from time to time. Frazzled and damaged hairs, lashes that are tangled together - it’s the stuff of brow and lash lamination nightmares!
However, for some professionals, being faced with a botched job extends beyond cringing at pictures online. And if a client comes in with hairs that are already damaged from processing, many are left wondering where does the salvaging process begin?
That’s where lash and brow protein reconstruction comes in…
(click on the headings in the contents box below to skip through)
What is Lash and Brow Protein Reconstruction
Protein reconstruction aims to restore the structure of lash and brow hairs that have been damaged from over-processing. The ingredients within the treatment help to nourish the hairs and promote their growth.
Fortunately, lash and brow protein reconstruction can be done straight after a failed lash or brow lift, meaning there is a solution to poorly executed perms that doesn’t involve waiting it out.
Protein reconstruction aims to restore the structure of lash and brow hairs that have been damaged from over-processing.
How Does Lash and Brow Protein Reconstruction Work?
Protein reconstruction shares some similarities with a perming procedure. However, by utilising nourishing ingredients and formulations, protein reconstruction is gentle on hairs and boasts additional restorative benefits.
To understand the similarities and differences between protein reconstruction and lash and brow lifts, we first need to understand what a disulfide bond is…
What is a disulfide bond?
Disulfide bonds hold together the protein (also known as keratin) that our strands of hair are made up from. It’s these bonds that help hair to maintain its shape and structure.
Watch this video by Chemistry Channel to find out more…
Protein reconstruction shares some similarities with a perming procedure. However, by utilising nourishing ingredients and formulations, protein reconstruction is gentle on hairs and boasts additional restorative benefits.
How does a normal lash or brow lift work?
Disulfide bonds need to be broken in order to curl, straighten or lift the lash or brow hairs. Usually, this is done using thioglycolic acid (or TGA) - a common ingredient found in lifting systems and popular in hair perming treatments.
This is step 1 of the process.
However, some thio-free formulas, such as Mayamy’s Lash + Brow Protein Reconstruction Kit, utilise cysteamine.
Often considered gentle, cysteamine is used as the primary ingredient in the first composition of the protein treatment to stretch the disulfide bonds, allowing them to be carefully manipulated as they would in a lash and brow lift.
The 2 benefits of using a cysteamine formula (like Mayamy’s Lash + Brow Protein Reconstruction) are:
- It may have a lesser effect on the hair’s protein levels than thioglycolic acid formulas
- It may produce less oxidative damage in hair cuticles compared to TGA-based formulas.
What about step 2?
Step 2 involves neutralising the hairs to reform the disulfide bonds and set the hairs in their new structure. A common neutraliser used in this step is hydrogen peroxide.
However, one scientific paper noted that “the neutralization process may be more damaging than the thiol reduction”.
That’s why, in step 2 of Mayamy’s Lash + Brow Protein Reconstruction treatment, known as the volume building part of the process, sodium bromate is the neutraliser of choice. Research indicates that sodium bromate could weaken hairs less than hydrogen peroxide and is less likely to affect the natural colour of the hair compared to hydrogen peroxide.
Note: This does not mean we're against formulas with these ingredients. In fact, some of our favourite lifting solutions are formulated with TGA and hydrogen peroxide. When the hairs are properly assessed for damage and the treatment is carried out by a professional (who follows the correct procedures and waiting times between treatments), lifts with these ingredients are often successful. However, we're also fans of the additional nourishing benefits protein reconstruction offers, making it a great lifting option, even when used in place of your normal lifting solutions every so many treatments.
How else does protein reconstruction differ from a lash and brow lift?
You may already be aware of cysteamine-based lash lift and brow lamination treatments out there, so what sets protein reconstruction apart from them?
Some cysteamine-based formulations still use hydrogen peroxide as a neutraliser. However, the difference between these lash and brow lifts and protein reconstruction extends beyond these specific ingredients to the formulation as a whole. As stated by Mayamy themselves, “Due to ceramides, amino acids, healing oils and plant extracts, contained in the compositions, eyelashes and eyebrows acquire the lost softness and elasticity.”
Let’s explore these additional ingredients further…
What are the further benefits of a protein reconstruction treatment?
Aside from delivering a gentle lift to the brows and/or lashes, protein reconstruction has been designed to nurture damaged hairs.
It does this through unique formulations that utilise ingredients with a whole host of nourishing properties.
First, let's explore step 1: protein lift…
This is the step in which the disulfide bonds are stretched, meaning cysteamine is at play here. Alongside this, lashes and brows also benefit from:
- Hydrolyzed Keratin which softens hairs and can enhance volume.
- Ceramide 2 which could increase hair strength.
- Arginine which conditions and promotes hair growth.
- Tocephorol Acetate which moisturises hairs.
Aside from delivering a gentle lift to the brows and/or lashes, protein reconstruction has been designed to nurture damaged hairs.
Now, let’s take a look at step 2: volume building…
After step 1, the hairs need neutralising to reform the disulfide bonds and set them into their new position. Mayamy have further infused ingredients that mean the second step of protein reconstruction ‘strengthens and restores hairs from roots to ends due to the high content of healthy nutrients.’ These include:
- Shea Butter which is full of fatty acids and vitamins A, D and E which may help to moisturise hair.
- Jojoba Oil which softens hair and enhances volume.
- Macadamia Nut Oil which helps to restore moisture and ‘adds natural protein to the hair’.
- Grapeseed Oil which moisturises and strengthens hair and could potentially promote hair growth.
- Oleic Acid which may help to lock in moisture.
- Keratin which we have already explored as a hair softener and volume enhancer.
- Ceramides which we already know to have potential hair strengthening properties.
Finally, let’s look at the rest of the treatment…
Step 3, the final step, of Mayamy’s protein reconstruction treatment is a growth serum. It’s here where even more nutrients are infused into the hairs, including avocado and argan oils, to promote longer, healthier lashes. In fact, Mayamy states that this formulation ‘increases the volume of each hair by up to 30% after the first treatment’.
You can also enhance your protein reconstruction treatments with protein botex (an optional extra). This additional moisturising and nourishing formula not only features tocopherol and hydrolysed keratin (as found in steps 1 and 2), but also…
- Hyaluronic Acid which adds moisture and revitalises hair.
- Argan Oil which acts as a moisturiser and ‘protects from breakage and increases elasticity’ of the hair.
- Collagen which conditions hair and may enhance volume.
- Usma Oil which can potentially promote hair growth
- Panthenol which strengthens hairs and locks in moisture.
- Coconut Extract which leaves hairs soft and conditioned.
It’s easy to see the vast benefits that protein reconstruction offers on top of its gentle lash and brow lifting results. In fact, Mayamy has formulated this treatment so that it can be repeated straight away - no waiting it out for 6-8 weeks between appointments. We do, however, recommend that you use your professional judgement to advise your clients of a suitable time for their next appointment.
There’s no need to leave 6-8 weeks between protein reconstruction treatments - making it a suitable treatment for clients who want lifting treatments more regularly.
To summarise:
| Mayamy Protein Reconstruction | Normal Thio-based Lash + Brow Lift | |
| Lifts the brows/lashes? | ✅ | ✅ |
| Can repeat treatment immediately? | ✅ | ❌ (only in exceptional circumstances) |
| TGA-free formula? | ✅ | ❌ |
| Enhances hair moisture? | ✅ | Some formulas |
| Promotes hair growth? | ✅ | Some formulas |
| Increases hair volume? | ✅ | Some formulas |
| Nourishes + strengthens? | ✅ | Some formulas |
How To Perform a Lash and Brow Protein Reconstruction Treatment
The steps to complete a protein reconstruction treatment share many similarities to a lift - meaning if you’re well-versed in a lash or brow perm, you can pick up protein reconstruction easily.
Who is the treatment for?
In order to market this treatment, it’s important to know which of your clients would benefit from it. Protein reconstruction is best suited to:
- Lash and brow hairs that are weak and lacking hydration
- Those who want the effect of lifted brows or lashes but normal lifting treatments do not work or cause irritation or damage
- Clients who want fuller-looking lashes but want a break from lash extensions
- Lashes that are damaged from poorly applied or removed extensions
- Those who want the effects of brow or lash lifts more frequently than normal treatments allow.
Protein reconstruction is for clients with damaged lash and brow hairs who still want the benefits of lifting treatments.
A step-by-step guide to performing a protein reconstruction treatment
Before performing a protein reconstruction for the first time on a client it’s recommended that you patch test at least 48 hours prior to their appointment. We advise doing this by applying a small amount of all the solutions, and adhesive, onto the skin on the inside of the elbow. Leave for 30 minutes before removing with water.
Read on for step-by-step instructions or watch the video below to see how to perform this treatment on lashes (read on for brow application instructions):
Step 1: Cleanse the lashes with Mayamy Micellar Water or Mayamy Cleansing Lotion.
Step 2: Apply undereye pads and then prep the lashes with Mayamy Aroma Primer.
Step 3: Choose a silicone lifting pad and apply to the eyelid with Mayamy Protein Reconstruction Glue.
Step 4: Apply more glue to the top side of the lifting pad and lift the lashes onto the shield using a y comb or a lash lifting tool.
Step 5: Use a microbrush to apply composition 1, protein lift, to the base of the lashes, making sure to avoid the waterline. Leave for 15 -20 mins before removing with a dry cotton bud.
Step 6: Then apply composition 2, volume building, to the lashes in the same way as step 1, using a new microbrush. After 20 minutes, remove the composition with a dry cotton bud.
Step 7 (optional): If tinting, apply to the lashes and leave to develop for 5-8 minutes. We recommend using Bronsun tints alongside protein reconstruction.
Step 8: Remove excess tint with a dry swab and then cleanse the lashes with Mayamy Cleansing Lotion.
Step 9 (optional): If applying Protein Botex, place the tightly closed bottle in boiling water for a few minutes until the product turns clear. Apply to the lashes (avoiding the waterline) and leave for 10-15 minutes.
Step 10: Use the cleansing lotion to remove the lashes from the silicone pads and to remove the shields from the eyelids. Use a fresh microbrush to apply composition 3, growth serum, to the lashes.
If you are carrying out a protein reconstruction treatment on eyebrows, the steps are the same as above except…
- A saline solution or brow shampoo is used to prep the brows in place of a lash primer.
- You create the shape of the brows using the glue applied directly to the brow hairs, which are then brushed into their desired place - no shields necessary.
- Before using any of the compositions, apply Mayamy Zone Gel around the brows.
Top Tip: Use cling wrap gently placed over the lashes or brows after applying compositions 1 and 2 to prevent the product from drying out and to add heat to aid in processing.
How long is a protein reconstruction treatment?
The length of treatment varies based on the number of optional steps you include. To help, we’ve created this handy treatment time guide:
| Treatment | Development Time | Recommended Appointment Time |
| Protein Reconstruction | 35 - 40 mins | 50 mins |
| Protein Reconstruction + Protein Botex | 45 - 55 mins | 1 hour 5 mins |
| Protein Reconstruction + Bronsun Tint | 40 - 48 mins | 1 hour |
| Protein Reconstruction + Bronsun Tint + Protein Botex | 50 - 65mins | 1 hour - 1 hour 15 mins |
Although treatment times are longer than typical lash lifts and brow lamination treatments, it’s important to remember that this service delivers more than a lift. You are also offering your clients a treatment that nourishes and cares for damaged and dehydrated hairs.
How much should you charge for a protein reconstruction treatment?
How you price your services is often down to a number of factors, including, the cost of your expenses and overheads and where you are located. However, the table below will give you an idea of roughly how much you should (or could) be charging for this treatment.
These prices are based upon purchasing the Mayamy Mini Lash & Brow Protein Reconstruction Kit and getting 30 applications from each topical product. We’ve calculated that this would work out at £2.83 per treatment for VAT registered businesses or £3.40 for non-VAT registered businesses (other disposables, reusable tools, overheads and expenses not included).
Please note that the number of applications may be higher or lower depending on the individual user and on your client's lash or brow hairs. Some people may get less than 25 applications from a bottle, some may get up to 50. Mayamy states that you can get up to 50 applications from compositions 1, 2 and 3, between 20-25 applications from composition 4 and between 25-30 applications from the reconstruction glue. We’ve taken 30 applications as an average for calculation purposes and this should not be taken as a guarantee.
| Treatment | Outside London | London |
| Protein Reconstruction | £45 - £50 | £60 - £65 |
| Protein Reconstruction + Protein Botex (based on 80 applications from one bottle of Botex) | £60 - £65 | £75 - £80 |
| Protein Reconstruction + Bronsun Tint | £55 - £60 | £70 - £75 |
| Protein Reconstruction + Bronsun Tint + Protein Botex | £65 - £70 | £80 - £95 |
Lash + Brow Protein Reconstruction: In Summary
Overall Mayamy’s Protein Reconstruction isn’t just a protein treatment and isn’t just a lifting solution, it’s both and more.
If you’ve skipped through or just want a recap of what protein reconstruction is, it will…
- Lift brows and lashes with a formula that's gentle on the hairs.
- Nourish and strengthen lash and brow hairs with a whole host of nutrient-dense ingredients that are infused into the different formulas used throughout the treatment.
- Help to promote lash growth, with a dedicated growth serum step.
- Prevent overprocessing of lash and brow hairs, meaning it’s a suitable treatment for clients with damaged hairs who still want the effects of a lash or brow lift.
Mayamy’s Protein Reconstruction isn’t just a protein treatment and isn’t just a lifting solution, it’s both and more.
Protein Reconstruction FAQs
Still got questions, or want to quickly refer to some of the most commonly asked questions, take a look at the FAQs below…
Yes. The formulation works similarly to lash and brow lifting treatments but uses formulations that will also nourish and strengthen the hairs.
If a lifting treatment fails, protein reconstruction can be used right after to restore chemically damaged hairs whilst also delivering a lifted effect.
Yes. Protein reconstruction is a fantastic standalone treatment that delivers visible results (lifted lashes and/or brows) while nurturing and restoring damaged, dehydrated and weakened hairs.
To offer a lifting procedure for clients with damaged hairs. To help restore lashes that have been damaged from poorly applied and removed extensions.
We recommend marketing protein reconstruction as a lash and brow treatment that will nourish, restore and strengthen the hairs as well as lift them without over-processing.
No. The treatment, in theory, can be repeated immediately. However, we recommend using your professional judgement when advising your client on the best rebooking timeframe.
Yes, it’s designed to restore damaged and dehydrated hairs.
You can enhance the restorative and nourishing effects of the treatment by adding in a Protein Botex treatment. If you are tinting alongside, it’s recommended that you use Bronsun products.
It’s recommended that prior to a brow protein reconstruction treatment that scrubs and peels are not used in this area.
The actual treatment time is as little as 35 minutes. We recommend allotting at least 50 minutes per appointment. See our table of treatment times to find out more.
Up to 6 weeks.
All topical solutions used within the treatment expire 6 months after opening, except for Protein Botex, Bronsun Tints and Bronsun Milk Developer which have an expiry length of 12 months after opening.
The number of applications you will get will depend on how you work and on the thickness and density of your clients' lash or brow hairs. Some people may get less than 25 applications from a bottle, some may get up to 50. Mayamy states that you can get up to 50 applications from compositions 1, 2 and 3, between 20-25 applications from composition 4 and between 25-30 applications from the reconstruction glue.
Treatment prices will vary depending on what extras you offer and where you are located. However, we recommend charging £45 as a minimum. See our pricing table to find out more.